I’m sure that you, as a knowledgeable world citizen, know
what the country of Chile looks like. If not, however, it’s something like
this:
Zooming even farther in, you’ll see the layout of the
Valparaíso,
Viña
del Mar, Reñaca,
Con Con area. Before I came, people kept throwing out all these names, and I
kept telling them that there was no way that there were that many towns that
close together. “Impossible!” I said, but it is indeed possible. As you can see
the cities orient themselves around a semicircular bay. Valparaíso
runs into Recreo (not really a town, but it’s where I live, giving it the
utmost importance and relevance), which runs into Viña del Mar, which runs into Reñaca,
which finally ends in Con-Con.
It’s impossible to describe each of these fantastic places
in a brief paragraph, but I’m going to give it my best shot based on the
impressions I’ve gotten in my six weeks here:
Valparaíso-The commercial port of the country, Valparaíso
is always bustling with ships and dock workers, but also extremely prominent is
the Chilean Armada, or navy, which draws in huge numbers of sailors—all in
uniform, if you catch my drift, ladies—as well as a number of massive ships
outfitted with cannons and other such naval devices—I really don’t know much
about the armed forces in any country. The rest of the city is beautiful and
walking through the streets, you can find some of the most incredible street
art in the world. This means that something mundane, like a real estate office,
can be beautiful simply because someone went after their exterior walls with a
can of spray paint—it really does put the tagging in the States to shame. It is
worth noting that this is a more dangerous area, and it would behoove you to
ten cuidado (be careful) while walking the streets, and avoid heading out there
at night without some trustworthy Chileans by your side.
Recreo-My home! It’s a small portion of the area, but it
still claims some panaderías (bread stores), lavaderías (washing/dry cleaners),
botillerias (beverage/liquor stores), and other shops as its own. I also always
feel safe in my neighborhood—which is not to say that it is 100% safe, but that
at this point in time, I am probably blissfully unaware, and therefore
incredibly lucky, of any violence. Having gotten lost a number of times in my
neighborhood, I have stumbled upon some gems beyond the brightly painted houses,
including a secret garden, a small, stone staircase that takes you up the 50 foot
precipice that you sometimes run into when you take the wrong turn from the
metro station, the Estadio Español—which I haven’t wandered into
because it’s gated, but according to the internet, seems like a Chilean country
club. To that I say “¡Qué rico!” (how fabulous!)—and some lovely old men that sit at
a card table outside of one of their houses, smoking cigars, and talking about
those topics that trouble old Chilean men, and who always greet me with grins
and a “Hola, gringa” when I walk by on my way to the bus stop.
El Estadio Español |
Viña del Mar-The hub of all things touristy in the area, Viña
absolutely caters to those from out of town and offers tons of restaurants,
beaches, and attractions. It’s quite possible to live here for five months and rarely
travel outside of Viña del Mar. To put it simply, it’s gorgeous. It also has
its fair share of historic and cultural attractions that I won’t give away
here, but I will post about as I check them off of my “to visit” list.
Something I noted quickly about Viña—call it the princess in me, however small
her voice may be—but you casually walk by these massive castles that seem like
something Walt Disney installed in the 1970s, but your mama chilena tells you
that they date back to the colonial era, and that the one over there happens to
be the President’s vacation home, and that one houses a world class spa. Oh,
well that’s….pretty amazing…And the mixture of architecture is absolutely one of the
best parts of the city.
Wulff Castle--I suppose it will do for a second home |
Reñaca-In Reñaca, you will find multiple neighborhoods—Reñaca
Alto (i.e. up in the hills) is not a place for gringos to be walking about late
at night, but Reñaca Abajo (beachfront property) is much better. Reñaca
is most certainly a place to explore! Home to some of the most beautiful
beaches in Chile and a bustling sector of vacation homes, it’s packed in the
summers. Luckily, since we are just heading into Spring, we’ve been keeping it
to ourselves, but I think we’ll start having some company very soon now.
Con-Con-Mostly known for its massive sand dunes, Con-Con is
the relatively small, northernmost sector of the area that I am starting to
call home. The dunes are nationally preserved, and thus protected, but the area
around, according to the signage, is looking at some massive development
projects coming soon. Let’s hope it doesn’t detract from how amazingly beautiful
this place is!
Alright, considerably lengthier than originally anticipated, and I don’t
think I’ll be penning any travel guides anytime soon, but hopefully that gives
a small snapshot of the region! There is so much more to these places than what
I could even start to describe here. Therefore, you’re just going to have
to come and figure out how wonderful everything is yourself. Lo siento que no lo siento--Sorry I'm not sorry about that one.
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